Kochi

The beating heart of most cities is their food market.  But while big cities like Tokyo have some great markets, my favourite is in Kochi.  Kochi is a quite small town by Japanese standards, with a population of 320,000 — compared with Tokyo’s 37 million.  Moreover, its population is in sharp decline as the population ageing and urbanisation are hitting remote Japan very hard.

But I love Kochi for its remoteness on the south coast of Shikoku, arguably the most remote of Japan’s four main islands.  And above all, I love Kochi for its market.

In the centre of the market is a big seating area, like a food court.  But this is no food court with fast food.

Like me, many come to eat the wonderful fish bonito.  Bonitos are a tribe of medium-sized, ray-finned, predatory fish in the family Scombridae, which it shares with the mackerel, tuna, and Spanish mackerel tribes, and also the butterfly kingfish.

Bonito is seared under flames (see photo) and eaten with fresh slices of garlic.  The purpose of searing is to enhance its flavour by adding a smoky aroma, create a crispy skin, and remove any lingering fishy odor, while keeping the inside raw and succulent. Searing kills surface bacteria on the fish and offers a textural contrast to the soft sashimi interior.

I love to wash down the Benito with a “yuzu sour”.  A Japanese “sour” is a popular, refreshing alcoholic beverage typically made from a mix of distilled spirits—most commonly shōchū—soda water, ice, and citrus juice, with the Lemon Sour being the most iconic version.

But I prefer yuzu sour to lemon sour.  Yuzu is a highly aromatic East Asian citrus fruit, often called the “queen of citrus,” known for its bumpy, yellow-green skin and a tart flavor combining lemon, grapefruit, and mandarin orange notes. Primarily used in Japanese and Korean cuisine for sauces, teas, and desserts, it is also known for its strong aroma in bathing rituals and skincare.

The people from Kochi are reportedly fun loving people who enjoy drinking with good food, and this vibe is readily appreciated at the market.  I happened to be seated next to a guy from Tokyo, Yasu, who was in Kochi for a Japanese sword competition.  He also greatly enjoyed the time at the market.