Daihōji, Temple 44, Shikoku

Another mighty climb, though less than the previous one.  It was late in the day, so we did not meet any other pilgrims

The distance from Temple 43, Meisekiji is about 80 km, 20 hours on foot. Part of this is known as henro korogashi, which means pilgrims tumbling down. This refers to steep sections where it is easy to slip and fall. Daihōji is also called Nakafudasho (Middle Temple) as it is a halfway point in the Shikoku Pilgrimage – 44 temples visited, 44 to go. Surrounded by the Shikoku Mountains at an elevation of 579 meters, the temple grounds are shaded by old forest trees. The atmosphere is serene.

The temple’s history dates back to the time of the Yamato Imperial Court, from the 4th century to the mid-7th century. A holy monk from Kudara (Korea) brought a statue of the Juichimen Kannon Bosatsu (Eleven-faced Bodhisattva Who Hears the Sounds of the World) and enshrined it in this mountain. In 701 two hunters from Aki (Hiroshima), the brothers Myojin Ukyo and Myojin Hayato, found a statue of Juichimen Kannon Bosatsu in the grass and built a hermitage for the worship of Kannon. Emperor Monmu (reigned 697-707) heard about this and immediately issued an imperial command to build a temple.

He named the temple Daihōji after the Japanese era, which was also called Daihōji. Kobo Daishi visited the temple about 120 years later, in 822. He performed esoteric Buddhist rituals and designated the temple as the halfway point of the Shikoku Pilgrimage. He also changed the sect of the temple from the Tendai sect of Buddhism to the Shingon sect.

In 1152 a forest fire swept over the mountain and the temple was destroyed. However, soon after, during the Hogen era (1156-1159), Emperor Go-Shirakawa (reigned 1155-1158) prayed to be healed of an illness. When he recovered, he ordered that the temple be rebuilt and appointed his sister as the head priest, making it an imperial temple. The temple was given an imperial tablet called Sugōzan. Seven major buildings were constructed. At its peak, there were 48 monk’s cells on the mountain.

The temple was again destroyed by fire in the Tensho era (1573-1592). It was restored with donations from the lords of the Matsuyama domain and, in the mid-Edo period (1603-1868), it became a place of prayer for the Matsudaira family. However, it was burnt down again in 1874. It was destined to struggle against fire.