Shikoku pilgrimage completed

One year ago, almost to the day, I arrived at Temple 1 of the Shikoku O-henro-san pilgrimage, and the shop selling pilgrim hats, coats, walking sticks, and stamp books. My hope was to walk the pilgrimage which involves visiting 88 temples.  

I had no idea how to tackle this challenge, and what might be in store for me.  The information I found was unclear.  But thanks to the kindness and generosity of the Japanese people, I managed to do it.  

The other day, when I entered the shop and wandered through, I was shaking with emotion, remembering how I started this adventure.  I don’t think that my guide fully understood my personal drama.   

I was severely reprimanded by the shop owner for taking photos.  But when I explained my one year pilgrimage, he softened and agreed to a photo.

What information can I share with you, dear reader?

There is not a huge number of people taking the Shikoku pilgrimage, and that number is apparently declining.  This is in sharp contrast to more than 530,000 people who complete the Camino de Santiago every year.

The vast majority of the Shikoku pilgrims are Japanese – the number of foreigners is very low. Again, this is in contrast to the Camino where Spanish pilgrims make up about 42 percent of the total.  Interestingly, I met extremely few pilgrims from Shikoku.  Most came from Honshu, Japan’s main island.

Many Shikoku pilgrims are motivated by a personal loss, such that walking the pilgrimage is part of the grieving process, and a way to communicate with the soul of the departed loved one.  Others see the pilgrimage as an important element of Japanese culture.  People who walk the Camino de Santiago reportedly do so for spiritual growth, physical challenge, and personal transition. 

While the Shikoku pilgrimage is in theory undertaken by foot, most do so by car, train or bicycle or a combination thereof. This is for several reasons.  The distance between temples is variable and often very long.  Accommodation, shops and restaurants are unevenly located. Again this is in contrast to the Camino de Santiago where pilgrims primarily walk. 

Although I travelled between temples by car, I enjoyed lots of physical exercise because many temples are inaccessible by car, and require climbing up hundreds of stairs. 

Most of the pilgrims I met were seniors like me.  Again, this is different from the Camino which attracts people of all ages, with seniors accounting for only 20 percent.

What comes next?

In reality, about 20 of 88 Shikoku temples are of great interest to an inveterate hiker like me. So I am tempted to visit my favourite temples every year for as long as my old legs will carry me. And I am planning to start the next phase of my life as a pilgrimage in October.

Stay posted to my website!